Bright spring mornings just got a little brighter thanks to a lively venue featuring a former Builders Arms chef in Brunswick, a café specialist and the homey hangout of a one-of-a-kind newcomer.
Open House, Clifton Hill
Eleven years ago Nathen Doyle helped open Carlton’s Heartattack and Vine on Lygon Street, creating a new destination for all-day European-style wine and dining on the strip and a following for its epic porchetta roll. Now he’s sold the business and is ready to wow mornings in another neighborhood.
“[Heartattack and Vine] “Doyle was at a point in his life where he needed someone who was willing to put all his energy into him, and I’m not that person anymore,” he says.
Instead it focuses on: Open MeetingA new cafe not far from where he lives in Clifton Hill. It replaces the tarda cage.
The menu keeps it simple. “We want it to be an extension of your home,” he says.
Look for a few loaded tots like poached eggs with pickles and fried mushrooms with goat cheese, along with add-ons like homemade kimchi. Sandwiches may include kyuri zuke with miso egg and Japanese pickled cucumber.
Former Heartattack chef Diego Leon and India Anderson run the kitchen and the floor, respectively.
Open House joins Doyle’s other venues: Parkville art gallery eatery Residence and Carlton’s versatile Sunhands. Meanwhile, Heartattack co-founder Matt Roberts now runs Red Park in Ocean Grove.
122 Roseneath Street, Clifton Hill, open-house.com.au
Beautiful Jim Key, Brunswick
A cheerful and colorful daytime eatery with serious pedigree in its cuisine has opened in Brunswick.
“Even before we signed the contract, we had 15 glass balloons and 30 vintage blue stools,” says Priyam Chovhan. Beautiful Jim KeyHe launched it with his partner Josh Murphy, the former chef of Builders Arms Hotel.
The breakfast sandwich is a standout: a packet of smoked Lyonnaise sausage from Yarraville butcher Andrew’s, melted cheddar and two sauces (tomato and barbecue) on a potato roll.
But the menu has depth and breadth, from nutritious brown rice congee to French toast drunk with citrus amaro Montenegro. Lunch might be lamb schnitzel with green sauce. “We try to make everything bright to match the room,” Chovhan says.
Martini and oysters are the stars of Friday aperitivo time. There will be more evening action, including a guest chef takeover as Murphy develops a dinner menu.
7 Wilson Boulevard, Brunswick, beautifuljimkey.com.au
Mary’s, Collingwood
Singaporean-rooted The Old Raffles Place in Collingwood closed in January after 25 years. Now site Mary’sa café open day and night that celebrates the owner’s Nigerian heritage.
“It was very, very difficult to find food and drink that reminded me of home [in Melbourne]” says Mary Akindele, owner of St Kilda coffee and toast restaurant Sam’s.
To enhance the flavor of Nigerian food, he buys spices from Nula Multi, a grocery store in Braybrook.
“There can’t be a Nigerian restaurant without Jollof rice,” says Akindele. The extra earthy version is refried to order in ata din din, a spicy sauce of tomatoes and red peppers. There’s also water, a street food that Akindele is obsessed with; Featuring tender grilled beef marinated in a smoky, toasty, peanut-rich sauce.
Brunch means eating scrambled eggs and a pancake-bun hybrid that Mary’s serves with maple and hibiscus syrup, mimicking puff puff, West Africa’s favorite fried dough snack.
68-70 Johnston Street, Collingwood, marys.au
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