Review: My search for ham beurre in Paris led me to the best sandwich in Los Angeles

We have excellent croissants in Los Angeles. The baguettes at République and Clark Street bakeries are top-notch. Frites? There are too many local favorites to count. But when it comes to incredibly fine shops filled with wine, good mustard, and a counter piled high with all kinds of smoked meats that smell like feet? Paris is the place to be.

During a recent trip, I went in search of the perfect jambon beurre, the delicious French sandwich of ham and butter on a baguette. It’s the kind of thing you can find in almost every bakery in Paris, behind every deli counter, and at the cafe in your airport terminal. But when I did a quick search online to find the best ham beurre, I found the same store dominated the results. One online publication went so far as to claim that Le Petit Vendome’s jambon beurre is the “best sandwich in the world,” prompting dozens of influencers to visit the restaurant and proclaim the same.

The best sandwich in the world? I am no stranger to making such outlandish claims in this column. I referred readers to the best grilled cheese in the universe. I encourage them to head to Santa Ana for the best sourdough. I stand behind these wild statements. But I doubted that this Parisian ham beurre was the best sandwich in the world. I couldn’t resist visiting to see it with my own eyes.

But first, I sought advice from a reliable source.

Exterior of the Caractère de Cochon in Paris.

(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)

On my first morning in Paris, I walked from the Latin Quarter to Le Marais in search of Caractère de Cochon. Los Angeles Times deputy food editor Betty Hallock recommended the little shop, claiming that it’s actually home to the best ham beurre in Paris. Hallock has impeccable taste. And he is never one to overdo a piece of advice.

The store is located in a plum-coloured building in the third arrondissement of the Marais. When I arrived the woman inside was already helping a couple and politely asked me to wait outside. The space is the size of a walk-in closet and only one party is allowed at a time.

Clusters of grapevines hang from the ceiling and wine bottles line the walls. A man works behind the counter with a shiny metal meat slicer.

The first question the woman asks is whether I want a sandwich. Then he directs me to a small refrigerator with a tall glass door and asks me to choose my ham. There are meat rounds in every shade of pink, as well as jambon de Paris (boiled ham) and cured French ham. They’re plain or garnished with things like garlic or rosemary. I prefer plain ham de Paris and ask him to choose ham for the second sandwich. He points to the dark black cured ham and simply says “that’s it”.

Ham and butter sandwich from Caractère de Cochon in Paris.

(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)

Butter? Certainly. He then asks me to wait outside while the sandwiches are prepared and helps the next customers.

After walking on the sidewalk for about three minutes, he left the store and handed me my sandwiches.

The baguette makes a satisfying crunch, then butter squirts into my mouth. It has a wonderful flow of salt and cream, milky, a little grassy but mostly soft. Then the scent of smoked ham invades my senses, as greasy and strong as a forgotten gym sock. Everything works in harmony, intoxicatingly simple and balanced. Without a doubt one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. Three components. And it costs about $16.

The Jambon de Paris is more like the sandwich I was dreaming of; The ham is soft, tender and almost juicy. Both sandwiches are generously topped with shaved ham and butter.

Of course, nothing could be better than this.

When I arrived at Le Petit Vendome the next day, I was met with a line of about 25 people stretching the length of the block. The party of four behind me is from Florida. They read on the Internet that this is the best sandwich in the world. In the front are tourists from Germany. They had read the same.

Ham beurre sandwich from Le Petit Vendome in Paris.

(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)

Le Petit Vendome is a full-service restaurant offering a menu of bistro classics along with sandwiches. Although the restaurant has ample seating on the patio, customers are not allowed to order sandwiches at the tables. Even if you order a full meal. If you want to try the “best sandwich in the world” you will have to wait.

After about an hour, we reach the front of the line. There is a woman who both takes orders and makes sandwiches. He is kind and patient with anyone who approaches his window, asking questions in a language that is not his own.

We order a sandwich with jambon de Paris and a sandwich with saucisson.

The baguette is fresh, soft and chewy but with no cracks or cracks in the crust. The ham is cut into substantial slices with a firm, meaty texture. Although there is plenty of butter, the ham and the entire sandwich need salt. The mind-blowing trio of tastes and textures we experienced yesterday were missing.

It’s a sandwich I would eat again, but I regret the hour we spent in line.

If you want the Caractère de Cochon sandwich, you’ll need to book a flight to Paris. But you can make something pretty similar with a handful of ingredients sourced from shops and restaurants around Los Angeles. First of all, you need a good baguette. Clark Street bakeries and République restaurant are my favourites. They’re crusty and airy with just the right amount of chew. Clark Street also makes its own ham beurre with Dijon mustard and cornichon.

Ham beurre sandwich from Clark Street bakery in Los Angeles.

(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)

For butter and ham, the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop carries a variety of French butter and ham. Ask for the best French butter in the store and you will be presented with a Bordier salted butter motte, a small rock. I took half a kilo home to make a few sandwiches and eat with radishes for the rest of the week.

The shop sells both boiled and cured ham from France, and they’re happy to give you a taste to help you decide. We ask them to slice it thinly.

Grease both sides of your baguette with plenty of butter. Think of butter as an ingredient, not a condiment. You want to be able to taste the butter in every bite. Then layer a few slices of ham over it, but not so much that it overwhelms the bread or butter. The key to this sandwich is balance and letting each ingredient shine in harmony.

A baguette from the Clark Street bakery and a ham beurre sandwich made with butter and ham from the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop.

(Jenn Harris/Los Angeles Times)

There you have it. The best sandwich in the world is in your own kitchen.